The Cedar Park crag was on private land. Not anymore! This year it became part of a land gift for the neighbouring Cedar Mountain Regional Park. In honour of Nancy and Alfred Johns’ generous 323 hectare donation. the park has been renamed Johns Family Nature Conservancy Regional Park.
With its close proximaty to the city, easy access to its base and solid rock quality, Cedar Park was the first Kelowna crag to get the full attention of the bolt men. The late 90s saw a flurry of activity, followed by another route fest a decade later. It has over 120 sport routes, and all can be done with a 60m rope.
Trad came first of course. There are about 20 trad routes at Cedar Park, in the 5.6 – 5.9 range, with a few burly 10s. A 70m rope will get you safely on everything, but using a 60m is do-able. The classics are truly must-dos, and in good repair. The others need alpine traffic and some wire brush love.
Most of Cedar Park is south facing (the Lair is east-facing), so on a hot summer day, morning and evening is the best time get on a rope. The terrain is dog friendly. Croissant Wall and Main Wall are the most popular climbing areas.
CEDAR PARK HIGHLIGHTS
Named for its shape and flakiness, Croissant Wall is a thrilling, pumpy climbing experience. Crimps, jugs, high feet and a roof is the standard beta. Strange Currency (11d) and 51 Hot Dogs (11a) are must-dos. To the right, Rocky Mountain Fever (10a) forces a grovelling roof move that is fun ground entertainment.
Gomer Wall is beside Croissant Wall. If you are looking for fun 5.9ish climbing, this is the spot. Watch for falling rock in the spring. Expressway (P1) 5.9 (P2) 5.8 (P3) 5.7 is the best multipitch route at Cedar Park.
Yellow Wall features trad, mix and sport routes and is easy to identify by its colour and the left-facing crack with its wonderful off-width (Spiderman).
Main Wall consists of a left and right section, neatly broken in half by the amazing trad line Chain Lightning (distinctly lightning-like in appearance). Main Wall offers up a nice mix of technical 5.10 – 11 sport climbs, and classic trad routes. Three stars for Chain Lightning (5.9 trad), Black Lung (10c) and Kind End (10a).
Oyster Shell is the visible bulge on the on the south face of Cedar Park, and home to sport and trad routes. Most climbed and loved is the burly looking corner crack, Noisy Oyster (.10 trad)
Macho Crap wall is for trad climbers, and covers the remaining south face.
The Lair is on a mountain northwest of the main Cedar Park crag. Developed by locals AdamTutte and Aaron Culver in 2007, it has good potential once the 25m routes are rescrubbed and grading is resolved. Talk to these guys if you are willing to help.
There are plans by the park people to develop several new trails, including one that enters the Lair from the west side of the main crag. I think the steep terrain will stall this approach. Stick to the existing trail.