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Cedar Park Rock Climbing in Kelowna British Columbia

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Cedar Park

Also referred to as the Kelowna Crags or the Main Crags, Cedar Park was first developed as a trad area. In the 90’s sport climbing took over as the predominant style of route setting. Today Cedar Park has over 100 sport routes on the main crag, the Scruffy Bluffs and the Lair. There are a terrific variety of bolted routes, particularly in the 10s and 11s, most of the stations are in good repair, and all can be done with a 60m rope. The main wall of Cedar Park is south facing, so mornings and evenings are ideal in the hot summer. The Lair is east facing in a wide valley, so offers up more shade options.

Directions

Cedar Park climbing area is in the Mission area of Kelowna, just past the Kettle Valley housing development. Travel up Chute Lake Road, past Summerhill Estate Winery. At the top of the hill, veer right for 1.5 km. Drive through the Kettle Valley subdivision and turn left up the mountain, at the Chute Lake road sign. The road winds up the hill. At the fork for the Seaton House of Prayer, stay right. Continue past Lonely Crags and the log house for about 1 km. On your right will be a sign for Cedar Mountain Regional Park. Drive in and park.

New Routes / Changes     (please note: info is submitted and mainly unverified)

Macho Crap Wall

Dynamic Duo                                 12c                      B (3)                    8m

A stout roof to the right of Bowling Ball. Originally a Todd Guy project. FFA Adam Tutte

To get to the next 2 climbs, go east, past Dynamic Duo and  around the toe of a huge detached boulder wrapped in a burnt out tree shell (small rock cairn at the center point of the approach). Approximately 8 - 10 meters of fourth class climbing to reach a rope-in ledge system where the routes  start.

Shakin In Your Booties P2          5.9                       Trad                     16m

Second pitch to the 4-bolt Shakin in Your Booties (not in guidebook). Top features block ledge with 2 Metolius rap hangers. Lee Shephard, Diane Doyle 08

Arrested Development                 5.7                       B(6)                     22m

To right of Shakin in Your Booties. Says Lee … Features 2 small roofs -  waaaay easier than they look . Fine exposure leads to a ledge with 2 bolt chain station for rappel. Lee Shephard, Diane Doyle 08

Eastern Edge

Devil’s Furnace 

The Furnace was initially developed by Todd Guy and Mike Doyle in 1995, but for years has suffered from missing bolts. Aaron Culver has replaced missing bolts and hangers. Some DA paint-balled this massive roof.

The Lair 

Firefly                                              12b                                                  25m

10m left of Spank My Pink Panties. Begin left of a broken crack feature and up through a small corner feature to the blank stuff above. Crux at top.  Adam Tutte 08

Mad Pecker                                     12b                    B(4-5)                   10m  

Second pitch for Itsy Bitsy.  Adam Tutte 08

Orangutan Reach Around            5.11c                  B(4-5)                   10m?  

Left of Itsy Bitsy. Says Adam – tricky crux , fun short route. Jason Duris 08  

 

 

Kelowna Rock Climber on Lonley Boy Craig

Kelowna Rock Guidebook

 

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