Cedar Park

Also referred to as the Kelowna Crags or the Main Crags, Cedar Park was first developed as a trad area. In the 90’s sport climbing took over as the predominant style of route setting. Today Cedar Park has over 100 sport routes on the main crag, the Scruffy Bluffs and the Lair. There are a terrific variety of bolted routes, particularly in the 10s and 11s, most of the stations are in good repair, and all can be done with a 60m rope. The main wall of Cedar Park is south facing, so mornings and evenings are ideal in the hot summer. The Lair is east facing in a wide valley, so offers up more shade options.

Directions

Cedar Park climbing area is in the Mission area of Kelowna, just past the Kettle Valley housing development. Travel up Chute Lake Road, past Summerhill Estate Winery. At the top of the hill, veer right for 1.5 km. Drive through the Kettle Valley subdivision and turn left up the mountain, at the Chute Lake road sign. The road winds up the hill. At the fork for the Seaton House of Prayer, stay right. Continue past Lonely Crags and the log house for about 1 km. On your right will be a sign for Cedar Mountain Regional Park. Drive in and park.

New Routes / Changes    

Croissant Wall   (May 09)

Skahanian Rhapsody                               5.11c           B(9)           25m
Jani Vaaranpaa and friends 09
This route is getting good reviews thus far. Grade still needs discussion (maybe .11d).

Yellow Wall   (June 09)

On Solid Ground                               5.10 b-c           B(6)           18m
Solid fun here. Follow the bolts to the top and step right for the finish. Grade still needs discussion. Let us know.  Hanna's first go at chalking the bolt placement. Jani Vaaranpaa K.Hanna 09

Main Wall  (update by Tyler Parenteau May 09)

Eye of the Lyger                              5.11a             bolts to chains           28m
Start just right of Lazy Bumble Bee. Begins on good holds on the less than vertical face. Climb through Chain Lightning crack entering steeper ground and smaller holds. Has a good sequence crux at between the 4th and 5th bolt. After clipping the 5th bolt continue up the rest of Lazy Bumble Bee. Enjoy!

Tyler and Keith Parenteau 09

Macho Crap Wall (update by Lee Shephard - February 09)

Dynamic Duo                                 12c                      B (3)                    8m

A stout roof to the right of Bowling Ball. Originally a Todd Guy project. FFA Adam Tutte

To get to the next 2 climbs, go east, past Dynamic Duo and  around the toe of a huge detached boulder wrapped in a burnt out tree shell (small rock cairn at the center point of the approach). Approximately 8 - 10 meters of fourth class climbing to reach a rope-in ledge system where the routes  start. Note: this approach is now protected with two bolts, so following AR starts from the ground.

Arrested Development                 5.7                       B(8)                     32m

To left of Shakin in Your Booties. Says Lee … Features 2 small roofs -  waaaay easier than they look . Fine exposure leads to a ledge with 2 bolt chain station for rappel. Note the lenght- so be careful coming down. Lee Shephard, Diane Doyle 08

Shakin In Your Booties          5.9                        Trad                      16m

Shakin In Your Booties P2     5.6-5.7                 Trad                     35m

Second pitch to the 4-bolt Shakin in Your Booties (not in guidebook). Top features block ledge with 2 Metolius rap hangers. Descend by walking off to the east (right) via the normal hiker's path. Lee Shephard, Diane Doyle 08

Eastern Edge

Devil’s Furnace 

The Furnace was initially developed by Todd Guy and Mike Doyle in 1995, but for years has suffered from missing bolts. Aaron Culver has replaced missing bolts and hangers. Some DA paint-balled this massive roof. Good job on the cleanup fellas! This definately looks like some challenging fun for the hard men (and women).

The Lair 

Firefly                                              12b                                                  25m

10m left of Spank My Pink Panties. Begin left of a broken crack feature and up through a small corner feature to the blank stuff above. Crux at top.  Adam Tutte 08

Mad Pecker                                     12b                    B(4-5)                   10m  

Second pitch for Itsy Bitsy.  Adam Tutte 08

Orangutan Reach Around            5.11c                  B(4-5)                   10m?  

Left of Itsy Bitsy. Says Adam – tricky crux , fun short route. Jason Duris 08